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know what I’m doing. We have a dining table and just one of those standard ceiling lights that came with the house. It’s really bright, but also somehow makes everything look kind of bad. My wife says we need something better, a better light, but I don’t even know what
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that means or what to search for. I also don’t want to hang something huge and then it looks weird or too low or something. Is there a simple rule for picking a dining room light so you don’t mess it up? Well, yes and no, Cody. So, let me help you. The first thing is I imagine that
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you’re describing recess lights or lights that are inset in the ceiling that are kind of directed down and harsh like a spotlight or something. We do not want that. So, I agree that that’s a missed opportunity in your dining room. Now, above a dining table, I love a
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chandelier. If your dining table is over 72 in long, if it’s rectalinear or oval, I do prefer a linear chandelier or an elongated chandelier. If your dining table is under 72 in, whether it’s round, square, or rectalinear, or oval, I like a round chandelier.
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Now, round can still be boxy, but just that it’s equidistant length and widthwise. In terms of the height that you hang the chandelier, you measure it from the top of the table. So, no matter how tall the ceilings are, you want a light fixture that’s in relationship to the table. So,
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from the top of the table to the bottom of that light fixture should be 30 to 36 in. That’s going to give you a beautiful sort of wow moment above the dining area. When you’re thinking about how wide the fixture should be in relationship to the table, you want the fixture to be about
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50 to 75% the width of the table. I stick around the 50. So, for instance, if your table is 42 in wide, which is just a standard size, they often are 42, 36, 42, 48. That’s kind of how it goes. Then you’re going to stick around that 21 in diameter. Okay? You could go a
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little higher, you could go a little lower, but that’s the rule of thumb. And then lengthwise, you want to make sure that you have enough room on the end so that people aren’t bumping their heads. So that’s a little bit less of an exact, but that’s more of that 2/3 measurement,
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2/3 the length. And you could do 1/3 to 2/3 in my estimation. So, for instance, if you have a 60-in table, that 60-in long I’m referring to, that’s probably around a 20 in fixture, but you could probably go to like 30, but you’re not doing linear and you wouldn’t do 30 in
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deep unless the table was deep. So, there’s lots of things to think about, but those are just some general numbers that I use in my head when selecting fixtures for other people’s dining rooms. Now, this question didn’t come with any imagery, so I can’t counsel you specifically,
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but I agree with you that your dining table probably needs its own dedicated fixture. And the biggest challenge is just hardwiring a fixture where you don’t currently have a junction box. The other thing is, of course, it needs to be centered on the table both lengthwise
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and widthwise. So, that will really determine where the fixture needs to be placed. So, the key is that you need to have all your furniture in just the right place before you go calling an electrician and getting this work done. Now, if you already have a fixture
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there, you want to ideally center your table under it. But, I was just working with a client in Times Square and their junction box was nowhere near where the middle of their table needed to be for the space. So, I just found something that could swag. It had a cord rather
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than a down rod, which means that the junction box can stay and I can just loop that cord, have a hook coming down from the ceiling, and put the pendant wherever I want. So, that gives you a little bit of flexibility should you have a junction box somewhere, but
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aren’t quite able to line it up with where the table must be. Guys, I think I’ve solved all your problems. My mailbag is officially empty and I need your questions. Yes, this is a cry for help. So, if you’ve seen me on Instagram, if you’ve been following me
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on Tik Tok and you want me to answer your question, well, it couldn’t be easier. Head over to uploft.com/mpodcast. Once again, uplift.com/mpodcast and you can answer or you can ask. You can answer questions, too. You can let me know, Betsy, this is how you should
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have said it and I’ll review your response and let you know what I think. But you can also ask me a question. It could be a dialogue, right? And if you want to have a dialogue about becoming an interior designer, there’s never been a better time. Interior design is so
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popular. Everyone’s very focused on saving money and staying at home versus going out, entertaining, having friends over, especially in the summertime. And so get on your path. Start learning a new trade. Start learning how to turn your passion into profit and head over
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to Uploft Interior Design Academy. That’s right. I teach an academy and I teach people to be interior designers. Well, that’s been a mouthful. It’s time for me to go work on client projects and it’s time for you to send me questions so I have something to talk about next
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week. Until then, bye. A big thanks to our producer Jeremy Young and to Eton and the Embassy for our theme music. And shout out to our parent company, Uploft Interior Design, your trusted source for expert interior design. Visit uploft.com to explore our
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services and book a consultation with one of our talented designers. If you’re enjoying the Uplift and Tear Design podcast, please support us by sharing the show with friends and leaving a five-star review on Apple Podcasts or wherever you listen. It’s the best way
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to help new listeners find us. Thanks for tuning in and we’ll see you next week with more pro tips and pop culture dish.